Gumusluk Villa

Circular Walk from Yalikavak to the Deserted Village of Sandima

Paul Smith — Sun, 31 May 2009 17:23:58 +0000

Distance : about 3 miles

Time : allow 2 and a half hours.

Remember : water, sun hat, long trousers,socks, walking shoes.(picnic?)

Grade : Walk is easy although slightly overgrown and stony in places on the path back from Sandima.

By Car : Drive to the end of the road from Opus Village and turn right at the T junction towards Yalikavak. Continue (15 minutes) to the centre of the town and park in the car park on the right a few yards after the dolmus station.

By Dolmus: Take the Yalikavak dolmus from Gumusluk fishing village (or the end of the road to Opus village) to the dolmus station in Yalikavak in front of Yalikavak Belediyesi (town hall).

Suggest you do this walk on a Thursday when it is market day in Yalikavak. You can then visit the market and buy a few items for a picnic. The walk starts just by the market.

Start the walk at the car park (next to the market) next along from the dolmus station, with Yalikavak Belediyesi (town hall) facing you (opposite Yali Electric). Walk towards the town hall, then keep it on your left and an Internet café on your right. At blue signpost at crossroads, keep straight ahead on a modern paved road, signposted ‘Sandima’. Houses and orange groves line the road. Soon there is a dry riverbed / ditch on your left. Continue straight ahead uphill.

After 10 to 15 minutes, when the paved track turns left (signposted Alda Everi), keep straight ahead up an unmade road. There is a water cistern to you left in a dip. After another 5 to 10 minutes you pass eucalyptus trees and a drinking trough on your left and after another 200 yards a large open area appears to the left of the path and there is a large white drinking fountain. You have reached Sandima.

Take time to explore the village of Sandima by continuing straight ahead at the water fountain.

To return to Yalikavak take the path downhill by the drinking fountain, with the graveyard on your right. The path is clear but rocky in places and winds downhill towards Yalikavak. You cross the dry riverbed to the other side of the gorge. The path follows the gorge downhill (gorge now on your left), becoming a sunken track with cobbled stones. After a big rock / boulder keep a wall to your left and the path is again sunken and cobbled with a wall to each side. Next to an old well, either continue on the sunken path or go into a field and keep to the right edge, beside the sunken path, rejoining the path at a gate after 200 yards, just before a stone outhouse. You soon pass under a water pipe and there is a wall of a new development to your right. Keep left. Just before you reach the river (see it 5 yards ahead) turn left and climb over a wall. Then follow the path to your right.

In 4 minutes climb over scrub barrier, continue downhill following the gorge to the right of a new development. At the end of a development the road bends left. Ignore this and continue straight ahead down a dusty track towards Yalikavak. (dry riverbed on right and wire fences to each side) Dry riverbed crosses to your left in 150 yards. Go through more new developments until you reach a T-junction. Turn right and you are back on the road you started on. In a few minutes you will reach the car park.

Sunset at the Amphitheatre

Paul Smith — Sat, 16 May 2009 16:45:32 +0000

Is there another villa in Gumusluk with its own amphitheatre? This is only a slight exaggeration – we do share it with the other villas, but on every visit so far we’ve had it to ourselves.

When they built the site where Gumusluk Villa stands, not only did they pay attention to landscaping, leaving a number of mediterranean oaks and olive trees to enhance the environment, they also incorporated an amphitheatre. In the centre of the development a number of trees have been left standing and an amphitheatre has been constructed amidst them. Small pathways, planted on all sides with small succulent plants, displaying a carpet of gold and purple flowers in the spring and summer, lead towards the central mosaic. On summer evenings guests stroll over to the amphitheatre with their drinks to sit and watch the sun go down.

There are some large blue glasses provided at the villa. After making ready for the evening meal, I recommend filling these (although not completely – they take half a bottle each) with some rosé wine and walk the few yards to sip your aperitif and enjoy the sunset.

Rabbit Island Gumusluk

Paul Smith — Sun, 10 May 2009 15:07:05 +0000

Everybody’s doing it! As you drive past and look down from the road you see a faint line of people wading out to sea. How can we explain this eccentric behaviour? Is it that well-known propensity of the English holidaymaker, whenever they see a queue, to join it? I don’t think so. I guess it’s tradition; if you’re visiting the fishing village of Gumusluk, then you have to wade out to Rabbit Island. It’s just a given.

You start your journey from the end of line of restaurants a little further around the harbour from the brown tables of the Çay Bar (next to the jetty). There’s a white marble plinth and carving which look towards the small islet, which forms the left shoulder into the bay.

The water is shallow, only riding up to the knees at its deepest point. The walk can be a little uncomfortable without appropriate footwear; the pebbles are troublesome underfoot. For those who are staying at Gumusluk Villa there are a couple of pairs of ‘jelly’ shoes (sizes 6 and 8) which you can use; they are stored in or by the hall cupboard – although they do have a seasonal tendency to migrate into the utility / washing machine room.

Next to the pebbled underwater trail, on your left as you wade out, you can clearly see the smooth surface of an ancient road. This once led from the fortified island to one of the gates of Myndos (the ancient city which stood on this site some two thousand years ago). Do not be tempted to try and walk along this road – it is very slippery.

There are good views and spectacular sunsets from the lookout point at the top of the island. You can also see some of the ruins of ancient fortifications, both on the island and in the sea beside it.

As for the rabbits, there are a number of them of various shapes, colours and sizes; from large mottled brown to scruffy albino white. Generally the rabbits hide from the tourists during the day; but they can be seen at sunset when the visitors are few.

Limon Café

Paul Smith — Sat, 02 May 2009 17:16:01 +0000

People come from all over the peninsular to Limon bar / restaurant to watch the sunset and sip cocktails. Set just above the fishing village, it has spectacular views over unspoilt countryside to the bay and numerous islands beyond. Seating is on sofas and armchairs and the tables spread out from the bar all along the hillside. If you just come for drinks and the sunset, beware the price of cocktails! However, a meal with wine or beer can be reasonably priced. The salad we had was fresh and the pasta and lamb dishes were tasty. With a glass of wine, coffee and a dessert we paid £20 each.

Call in at the restaurant to make your reservation and choose your table. Then make sure you arrive on time! We were a few minutes late the first time we went there and nearly lost our carefully selected sofa!

Leleg Restaurant

Paul Smith — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 07:06:02 +0000

For ambience, fresh food and good service, all at very reasonable prices, Leleg is a must. On our visit in April 2009 we enjoyed it so much we ate here three times in a week! Situated right beside the sea at the end of the row of boutique shops, it has seating inside and out. The very welcoming Seyda, who runs the restaurant will greet you and tell you about her specials of the day. We loved everything we chose and for two courses with two glasses of wine each, we paid between 20 and 30 TL. (Specials started at 10 TL) The small deep fried red snappers were some of the best I’ve ever tasted and the barbecued sea bream was beautifully cooked. I was also impressed with the oven-baked pasta with chicken that I sampled on another occasion.

We suggest that you ask for Seyda and tell her that Paul & Val sent you (if she looks blank – tell her our villa is opposite Ken & Jim’s); you can rely on her judgement to select your fish. The best time for ‘specials’ during the peak summer months will probably be at lunchtime rather than the evenings when trade will be brisker.

Gumusluk Çay (Tea) Bar: a bargain!

Paul Smith — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:19:42 +0000

There aren’t that many bargains out there at the moment, so it seems well worth noting this one. Where else can you find entertainment for less than 50 pence ( 1 TL) for two. No, I’m not joking. You can really go to a bar, sit outside with great views of the harbour, order two teas and pay 40 pence for the experience!

The Turkish, as you probably know, have a tradition of tea (çay) drinking. This tradition is not only observed by the hospitality of being offered the beverage at various shops and businesses, but also by the preservation of unpretentious tea bars/ cafés ( usually with brown chairs and tables) where you can sit and order a small glass of çay for 0.50TL each.

One of the Çay Bars in Gumusluk fishing village sits next to the harbour where everyone, from locals to tourists, can sit and watch the world go by; try it yourself – the Gumusluk Çay Bar pictured also serves Apple (Elma) Tea for the same price, if you find Turkish tea rather strong.

Gönülçelen Café / Bar

Paul Smith — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 08:17:12 +0000

Our neighbours, Ken and Jim, run Gönülçelen café / bar with a Turkish friend. It’s situated just a few minutes’ walk from the fishing village (on the left up the hill on the Bodrum road, a few yards from the Turgutreis turn.) As well as a range of drinks, they serve excellent food at very reasonable prices. On our last visit we sampled the chicken curry and the Hungarian goulash – both freshly made and very tasty. With a couple of beers each the bill for two came to around 45 TL. (£18) During the summer they have a weekly fish evening at a similar price and they often host special events from discos to folk evenings. The end of May (2009) will see the opening of their marvellous roof terrace with panoramic views over the whole bay.

Circular Walk from Our Villa to the Deserted Village of Karakaya and Gumusluk Inland Village.

Paul Smith — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:30:58 +0000

Distance : about 5 miles
Time : allow 3 and a half hours.
Remember : water, sun screen, sun hat,walking shoes, socks, long trousers

Grade : Walk is easy apart from a 10-15 minute section (stony and often overgrown) as you approach Karakaya and the scramble up to the windmill.

Turn right out of the villa, pass the amphitheatre on your left and follow the road round to the right, past the pool and the site office. At the top of the slope is a black wrought iron gate. Go through the gate and turn left onto a dirt road. Keep right uphill. The road swings left behind new developments and you have good views out to sea of the Greek islands.

(For panoramic views of the islands, Gumusluk inland village and surrounding countryside with old windmills on the horizon, scramble up the highest mound to your left. Brilliant at sunset!)

Over the brow of the hill the road swings right inland in front of a tall wall of a development with a blue waterslide and tennis court. Continue along the now (mainly) tree-lined road as it meanders and takes you downhill.

At a junction just before a large water trough on the left, turn left. Trees overhang the path after a few yards. There is a view of an old windmill over to your right. (You can visit it later in the walk.) When you reach a makeshift broken wooden gate, turn right over a stream bed onto a small track. The next 10 – 15 minutes of the walk is stony underfoot and is on a largely disused ancient track, much overgrown and rock strewn in parts. However, keep the stone wall topped with barbed wire to your left and follow the sunken track uphill between two walls. After 10 minutes a house appears on your left behind the stone wall and you reach a track beside the entrance to the property.

Follow this good path a few yards uphill to join another track. You will turn right here to continue the walk, but first turn left for spectacular views of the bay and islands after 50 yards. Retrace your steps and continue up the concrete slope to the ancient village of Karakaya.

This path skirts the village, so return to it after you have explored the village. (Many houses are in ruins but several have been renovated and are used mainly as holiday homes.) The path brings you out at a parking area and a road. Follow the main road ahead of you lined with telegraph poles on the right. Don’t forget to glance behind you as you walk for some of the best views of Karakaya. There is also a water tap along the road if you need to replenish your water bottles. After 5 minutes you reach the (lime green) electricity substation.

From the substation you can visit the ancient and almost derelict windmill you saw earlier. Allow 10 minutes each way. Go through a gap in the fence to the right of the substation, next to an electricity pylon. Climb uphill towards the next pylon and then continue forward. The windmill appears after another few minutes.

To continue the walk keep the substation on your right and go down a wide screed path, parallel with the road but soon turning right. Enjoy great views as you walk. The path descends for 10 or 15 minutes and as it starts to ascend slightly you pass a new pool centred development with a dozen or so villas on your right. (Gümüs Evleri) The track becomes a paved road and at a junction turn left. When you meet the ‘main’ road turn right beside the veterinary clinic (Veteriner Klinigi Özge). After a couple of hundred yards turn right after a bus shelter on your right, onto a track signposted ‘Avukat Evyilmaz’. (Or for shops, a café and the bakers in Gumusluk inland village continue along the road for a few hundred yards, then retrace your steps.) NB the café on the right is ‘men only’ and no alcohol is served. However they are very friendly and when we went there not realising it was men only, they served us and even popped over the road to get us a beer!

At the water cistern (large, white, dome-shaped) turn right and follow the path back to our villa. (25 minutes) Look out for views of the windmills and Karakaya over to the right on your way. After a large water trough on your right (10-15 minutes) you will meet the path you took on the way to Karakaya. Keep left here and continue on the main path. The blue water slide soon becomes visible to your right. As you reach this complex you can take a left turn to cut off the corner, going past an attractive landscaped villa with pool to your left. At the top of the track turn left and Opus village is on your right.

We have attempted to show this walk on google maps; click this link to Karakaya Circular Walk to view.

EasyJet announce new route: Gatwick – Bodrum

Paul Smith — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:40:59 +0000

I have just discovered that EasyJet have announced a new route to Bodrum flying Gatwick Airport. I have just looked at some dates and return prices seem quite good. Please check them out and post any experiences.

The link to EasyJet new routes page is : http://www.easyjet.com/EN/About/Information/infopack_routeinfo.html

EasyJet Timetable

London Gatwick–Bodrum – Summer : 30 March 2009 to 25 October 2009; All times are local.

	London Gatwick to Bodrum			Bodrum to London Gatwick
Travel Day	Flt No.	Dep.	Arr.	Flt No.	Dep.	Arr.
Mo,Th,Sa	8833¹	13:55	19:55	8834¹	20:45	22:55
¹From 23 April 2009.

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Looks like a holiday in Gumusluk has become even more affordable.

I also read that a company called Pagasus is flying out of Stansted: but they fly to Istanbul ( not the main airport, but Sabiha Gokcen: SAW – see location) and you have to take a connecting flight. If you don’t mind taking a little longer they might also be worth checking; http://www.flypgs.com/EN/

Bati Restaurant in Gumusluk

Paul Smith — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 07:11:50 +0000

There are so many restaurants to choose from in Gumusluk that it’s difficult to know where to start. The majority of them are fish restaurants and although they all have their own personalities, they also have a number of common factors. For example, they all display fresh fish on an ice bed – which you visit with your waiter to select the fish for your table and decide on the cooking method, the weight and cost per kilo.

So I have decided to tell you about one of the restaurants that has a slightly different feel and theme. Its name is Bati. Dining is alfresco, but with some trelliswork overhead and climbing plants providing shade during the day. It has a slightly elevated position; if you sit at one of the tables along the edge you have a good view of the harbour and can look over a low wall and watch the people walking past below.

Bati has its own wood-burning oven and its speciality is Turkish pizzas, garlic bread and the like; you can take a look for yourself at the food cooking in this baked-clay sided hole in the wall and the chef in front preparing pizzas and using the long wooden paddle to slide them into the oven.

Bati also has its ‘chill’ area at the rear of the restaurant, where you can sip a coffee or brandy after your meal; you take your shoes off before entering. There is an open fire for those cooler evenings early and late in the year. The tables are very low and seating consists of large cushions scattered around them; all under the shade of the extended branches of a gnarled old fig tree.

And as for the prices… they are very reasonable.