Getting there: From the end of the Opus road (or from Gumusluk fishing village) take the Bodrum dolmus to Derekoy. Get off the dolmus at the museum ‘Collectibles’ at the end of Derekoy village. (a 10 – 15 minute journey)

I find the village of Derekoy fascinating for at least two reasons : the museum ‘Collectibles’ and the gourd lighting shop ‘Le Kabbak’.

‘Collectibles’ is the modern, architectually-designed home of the now retired director of the Maritime Museum in Bodrum. This quirky building, with its winding staircase up to several levels, has an ecclectic mix of old Turkish items such as lamps, jewellery and weights. Light floods in from the large floor to ceiling stained glass window: pale blue segments intermingle with colourful tropical fish.

The gourd lighting shop ‘Le Kabbak’ – a few paces closer to the village than the museum – has a beautiful array of lamps. As you approach you will hear the owner at work, making tiny holes in the gourds and then inserting coloured glass into each one for a unique effect. Have a look round and ask to go into the inner workshop to see some of the gourds lit up. Also for sale are a wide variety of stylish old pots and flagons, seemingly carelessly strewn about by the wall outside. (If you’re passing through Derekoy after dark the whole place looks like something out of a fairy tale.)

The Walk

Distance : about 2 miles each way (*for longer walk – see below)

Time : allow 2 hours.

Remember : water, sun hat, long trousers, walking shoes (picnic?)

Grade : easy

Suggestion : do this walk on a Tuesday when there is a small market in Derekoy so you can buy a few items for a picnic on the way.

The walk starts opposite the museum ‘Collectibles’ and a stall selling more gourd lighting and souvenirs. Take the small tarmac road ‘Kavakderesi Cad’, leading slightly uphill. (CAD is short for Cadesi = Road)

Follow this road as it winds into the countryside. After about 10 or 15 minutes the tarmac runs out, but keep straight on and from this point make sure the stream is always on your right.

You continue on this wide path, crossing a few streams on your way and after about 20 to 30 minutes you will be rewarded with a great view of the ‘big cheese’ : a cleft of rock which looks like a wedge of cheese, ahead of you. We returned to Derekoy soon after this point and took the dolmus back to the Opus turning. (However, if you want a longer walk* try the Sunflower ‘Bodrum to Marmaris’ walk no. 8 : Ortakent, Yaka, Derekoy page 99. There is a copy of the book on the shelf in the living room at the villa.)

Whenever we go at the beginning of the year we are always reminded how fresh and green the scenery is. There can be the odd day of rain, but generally the weather is around 20 C and it is quite pleasant to sit in the sun with a chilled glass of wine or beer; we were often able to sunbath.

Not being too hot it is also possible to embark on a walk or two and enjoy the profusion of spring flowers. So if you enjoy walking this is definitely the time of year to come (although October and November can also be very pleasant months for walking).

The season had not started properly and the restaurants along the shore were still preparing for the new season when we arrived on 26th March; painting the chairs, tables and pergolas, white washing some walls etc. By the second week of April, however, a few more restaurants were open and they had blankets draped on the back of the chairs in case the evenings got a little chilly.

Not quite the weather for swimming yet – although this didn’t stop two young girls jumping in the larger swimming pool on site. It was ‘cold’ they admitted – but the sun soon warmed them up again.

The house sits in an exclusive enclave within the world’s first Private Residential Nature Reserve: a 450 acre gated estate, including several lakes, the Thames River (just 3 miles from its source), meadows and woodlands, all of which attract extensive wildlife.

Situated within the prestigious Lower Mill Estate, guests can enjoy the award winning private spa complex with its indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools, an eco pool, sauna, steam room and fitness studio. Other facilities include a tennis court, nature trails, cycle tracks, boating and fishing.

If it’s pampering you’re after, book one of the many treatments available. You can choose from a variety of massages to wraps, manicures or facials. Afterwards relax in the spa gardens or the tranquil library.

Nightingale House sleeps a maximum of 4 people and has luxurious fittings and designer furnishings throughout, with a feature wood burning stove, ‘state of the art’ entertainment systems, Egyptian cotton bedding…

Visit our new website at www.cotswold-spa-breaks.com

Mariette and her Turkish husband run the café; it’s more of a bar and restaurant really. Mariette is a very friendly ‘front of house’ host and will even teach you the rules of Backgammon if you want to use one of the boards available for guests.

It’s not exactly a prime position, but makes up for its lack of beach / harbour front with good old-fashioned hospitality and a friendly welcome. Check out their weekly steak night and buffet night and meet some new people. It is a particularly good venue during ‘off peak periods when it attracts a lot of the locals.

If you’re on a budget and have already seen how cheaply you can buy a glass of cay (tea) at the Gumusluk Cay Bar (next to the jetty in Gumusluk Fishing Village), look no further than the small kiosk sitting next to the Bar. Here you can buy piping hot meat balls in fresh Turkish bread for the price of about £1.25.

It’s probably not the place to go for that romantic evening meal, but it does provide a cheap snack at lunch time and a pleasant view of the harbour. You could even splash out on a bottle of water from the Cay bar for another 50 pence!

Bodrum is the largest town on the peninsula and is about 25 minute drive or 35 minute dolmus ride* from our villa in Gumusluk. Bustling and colourful, Bodrum is renowned for its shops, bars, restaurants and nightlife as well as its impressive marina and the town’s undoubted focal point, the beautiful St Peter’s Castle.

*(half hourly service until at least midnight)

For shopping the main bazaar lies in the pedestrian precinct, at the foot of the castle. Little shops of every sort abound in all the narrow streets; many sell leather goods, pottery and carpets. You have to bargain in Turkey (all in good humour) – take off about a third of the price they say or plead poverty: it’s all a game! On Tuesdays there is a massive fabrics and clothing market beside the bus station and on Thursdays and Fridays there is a food market here.

St Peter’s Castle

Built in the fourteenth century it has served as a military garrison, a compound enclosing a tiny village, and even as a fortress prison. Today it houses a world class museum of nautical archaeology.

Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am–12noon and 2pm–5pm

(Caria Princess Exhibit + Glass Shipwreck Exhibit open Tues to Fri 10am–12 noon and 2pm-4pm)

The Mausoleum Museum

One of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Mausoleum is the tomb of King Mausolus, dating back to around 350 BC. However, after surviving many centuries the Mausoleum was demolished by an earthquake in 1304 and the Knights of Saint John later used the site as a quarry to rebuild the castle. The area where the structure of the Mausoleum once stood has now become an open-air museum but little remains apart from the foundations.

Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am–12noon and 1pm–5pm

Day trip to Kos

Ferries run daily from Bodrum to the Greek island of Kos, crossings taking an hour (or only half an hour on the hydrofoil). Trips to places further afield include Marmaris, Didim and Rhodes.

The Ancient Theatre

Located on the main Bodrum road (on the left as you approach from Gumusluk) is the well preserved Roman Amphitheatre with great views of the castle and the town. Concerts are performed here in the summer.

Open daily 8.30am – 5pm

Myndos Gate and Ottoman Tower

A relic from King Mausolus’s time, the most significant remaining part of the original city wall. Located on the west side of Bodrum, this was one of two entrances to ancient Halicarnassus. The gate is named after the town it faces – Myndos, the present day Gumusluk.

Open 24 hours. Visit in the evening when the ruins are illuminated.

The Zeki Muren Museum

19, Zeki Muren Caddessi

Zeki Muren was a legendary Turkish vocalist and came to Bodrum when he retired. You can visit the late singer’s home and listen to his recordings of traditional Turkish music.

Open daily 8.30am–12 noon and 1pm–5pm

Live Music

The classy ‘Yacht Club’ along the marina has some excellent live bands performing during the summer months and is definitely worth a visit. Entry is usually free but drinks will be expensive.

The Ephesus site is quite extensive and has its own car park. The latest addition is the excavation of a group of town house near the library. You have to pay an additional entrance fee to see this new excavation – but it’s well worth it.

It is quite possible to arrange a coach trip from Bodrum (they will even offer to collect your from Gumusluk). Often these trips involve a night’s stay in a 4 star hotel (please note they are very small stars) and a stop at the other main tourist site in the area – Pumukkale. One of our first guests at Gumusluk villa took one of these trips; they had to be up at 6am in the morning. At least they thought they would arrive at Ephesus before the coach loads of other tourists; they had not considered the necessity of visiting the Gold Centre or was it the Carpet Village? (Perhaps that was on the return journey?). They arrived at Ephesus at midday in the heat of the day with all the other coaches…

Yet a trip to Ephesus is easily organised by yourself; either by hire car or by using one of the many coaches that leave to Selcuk from the coach station (next to the Dolmus station) in Bodrum. When we first visited Gumusluk 20 years ago we made the journey by coach and stayed over night in Selcuk, taking a taxi to Ephesus early in the morning – avoiding the crowds and the mid day heat

If you are planning the trip yourself, then we would recommend that you stay in a quaint little village called Sirence in the hills above Selcuk. It is very picturesque and has much more charm than Selcuk. We can recommend a boutique hotel in Sirence (http://www.nisanyan.com/); it has main bedrooms at or near the hotel and a wonderful a la carte restaurant (not too expensive). Alternatively it has village rooms for those on a budget; you can still book a meal and walk up to their restaurant in the evening.

In fact if the villa is not available for all the time you require, you might consider a couple of days at Sirence / Ephesus and then moving on to Gumusluk; Ephesus is only an hours drive from Bodrum / Milas airport.

The market is held just a few minutes’ walk* along the Bodrum road from the fishing village. It’s laid out in a ‘T’ shape with tents shading the stalls alongside the edge of a couple of fields. Everyone is friendly and there’s the usual banter as the stall holders ply their wares. One of our favourite stalls is at the far right of the ‘T’, selling fresh ‘Gözleme’ or Turkish pancakes with a variety of fillings including aubergine, cheese, meat, spinach and potato. With some fresh salad they make a great lunch. Another popular stall is one with a vast array of herbs and brightly coloured spices and stallholders who can answer any questions you care to ask. We rarely come away empty handed!

Try to master a couple of phrase before you go to the market :

Merhaba Hello

Ne kadar lütfen? How much is that please?

…and a few numbers so you understand the reply:

1 bir (beer) yarim (yareem) half

2 iki

3 üç (ewch)

4 dört (durt)

5 bes (besh)

Tesekkür ederim (tesha cure edarim) Thank you

If you’re feeling hungry after all your shopping, pop into ‘Gönüçelen’ bar just up the hill from the market towards the fishing village. It’s run by our neighbours at Opus, Ken and Jim and a Turkish friend and they serve an excellent ‘Irish Breakfast’ which you can enjoy from their roof terrace bar with its stunning views.

* Alternatively it’s a pleasant 30-40 minute stroll from our villa through country lanes. Turn left out of the gate at the top of the Opus site and right at the brow of the hill. Gumusluk (inland) village and its mosque are clearly visible in the valley below and the path winds gently down towards it. Turn right when you reach the road and head for the mosque. The market is held close by. You can get a lift back by taking the ‘train’ pulled by a tractor. These ‘trains’ are provided free by Gumusluk council and are a fun way to travel. The one going in the Gumuskaya (rather than Turgutreis) direction will drop you off at the Opus turn off at the top of the donkey track.

Distance

Time : allow 2 and a half hours.

Remember : water, sun hat, long trousers,socks, walking shoes.(picnic?)

Grade : Walk is easy although slightly overgrown and stony in places on the path back from Sandima.

By Car : Drive to the end of the road from Opus Village and turn right at the T junction towards Yalikavak. Continue (15 minutes) to the centre of the town and park in the car park on the right a few yards after the dolmus station.

By Dolmus: Take the Yalikavak dolmus from Gumusluk fishing village (or the end of the road to Opus village) to the dolmus station in Yalikavak in front of Yalikavak Belediyesi (town hall).

Suggest you do this walk on a Thursday when it is market day in Yalikavak. You can then visit the market and buy a few items for a picnic. The walk starts just by the market.

Start the walk at the car park (next to the market) next along from the dolmus station, with Yalikavak Belediyesi (town hall) facing you (opposite Yali Electric). Walk towards the town hall, then keep it on your left and an Internet café on your right. At blue signpost at crossroads, keep straight ahead on a modern paved road, signposted ‘Sandima’. Houses and orange groves line the road. Soon there is a dry riverbed / ditch on your left. Continue straight ahead uphill.

After 10 to 15 minutes, when the paved track turns left (signposted Alda Everi), keep straight ahead up an unmade road. There is a water cistern to you left in a dip. After another 5 to 10 minutes you pass eucalyptus trees and a drinking trough on your left and after another 200 yards a large open area appears to the left of the path and there is a large white drinking fountain. You have reached Sandima.

Take time to explore the village of Sandima by continuing straight ahead at the water fountain.

To return to Yalikavak take the path downhill by the drinking fountain, with the graveyard on your right. The path is clear but rocky in places and winds downhill towards Yalikavak. You cross the dry riverbed to the other side of the gorge. The path follows the gorge downhill (gorge now on your left), becoming a sunken track with cobbled stones. After a big rock / boulder keep a wall to your left and the path is again sunken and cobbled with a wall to each side. Next to an old well, either continue on the sunken path or go into a field and keep to the right edge, beside the sunken path, rejoining the path at a gate after 200 yards, just before a stone outhouse. You soon pass under a water pipe and there is a wall of a new development to your right. Keep left. Just before you reach the river (see it 5 yards ahead) turn left and climb over a wall. Then follow the path to your right.

In 4 minutes climb over scrub barrier, continue downhill following the gorge to the right of a new development. At the end of a development the road bends left. Ignore this and continue straight ahead down a dusty track towards Yalikavak. (dry riverbed on right and wire fences to each side) Dry riverbed crosses to your left in 150 yards. Go through more new developments until you reach a T-junction. Turn right and you are back on the road you started on. In a few minutes you will reach the car park.

When they built the site where Gumusluk Villa stands, not only did they pay attention to landscaping, leaving a number of mediterranean oaks and olive trees to enhance the environment, they also incorporated an amphitheatre. In the centre of the development a number of trees have been left standing and an amphitheatre has been constructed amidst them. Small pathways, planted on all sides with small succulent plants, displaying a carpet of gold and purple flowers in the spring and summer, lead towards the central mosaic. On summer evenings guests stroll over to the amphitheatre with their drinks to sit and watch the sun go down.

There are some large blue glasses provided at the villa. After making ready for the evening meal, I recommend filling these (although not completely – they take half a bottle each) with some rosé wine and walk the few yards to sip your aperitif and enjoy the sunset.