If you’re on a budget and have already seen how cheaply you can buy a glass of cay (tea) at the Gumusluk Cay Bar (next to the jetty in Gumusluk Fishing Village), look no further than the small kiosk sitting next to the Bar. Here you can buy piping hot meat balls in fresh Turkish bread for the price of about £1.25.
It’s probably not the place to go for that romantic evening meal, but it does provide a cheap snack at lunch time and a pleasant view of the harbour. You could even splash out on a bottle of water from the Cay bar for another 50 pence!
If you’re in Gumusluk on a Wednesday, you really shouldn’t miss the weekly market! It’s a lively, colourful affair and offers an excellent choice of fresh produce and textiles. (Pop into the fresh fish shop in the fishing village afterwards and you’ve got everything you need for a great barbecue that evening.) The market is held just a few minutes’ walk* along the Bodrum road from the fishing village. It’s laid out in a ‘T’ shape with tents shading the stalls alongside the edge of a couple of fields. Everyone is friendly and there’s the usual banter as the stall holders ply their wares. One of our favourite stalls is at the far right of the ‘T’, selling fresh ‘Gözleme’ or Turkish pancakes with a variety of fillings including aubergine, cheese, meat, spinach and potato. With some fresh salad they make a great lunch. Another popular stall is one with a vast array of herbs and brightly coloured spices and stallholders who can answer any questions you care to ask. We rarely come away empty handed! Try to master a couple of phrase before you go to the market : Merhaba HelloNe kadarlütfen? How much is that please? …and a few numbers so you understand the reply: 1 bir (beer) yarim (yareem) half 2 iki 3 üç (ewch) 4 dört (durt) 5 bes (besh) Tesekkür ederim (tesha cure edarim) Thank you.
To walk to the market from the villa is a pleasant 30-40 minute stroll, mainly through country lanes. Details on page 29 of the information folder at the villa. If you don’t want to walk back you can catch the dolmus (local minibus) The one going to Gumuskaya will drop you off at Opus top gate.
People come from all over the peninsular to Limon bar / restaurant to watch the sunset and sip cocktails. Set just above the fishing village, it has spectacular views over unspoilt countryside to the bay and numerous islands beyond. Seating is on sofas and armchairs and the tables spread out from the bar all along the hillside. If you just come for drinks and the sunset, beware the price of cocktails! However, a meal with wine or beer can be reasonably priced. The salad we had was fresh and the pasta and lamb dishes were tasty. With a glass of wine, coffee and a dessert we paid £20 each.
Call in at the restaurant to make your reservation and choose your table. Then make sure you arrive on time! We were a few minutes late the first time we went there and nearly lost our carefully selected sofa!
For ambience, fresh food and good service, all at very reasonable prices, Leleg is a must. On our visit in April 2009 we enjoyed it so much we ate here three times in a week! Situated right beside the sea at the end of the row of boutique shops, it has seating inside and out. The very welcoming Seyda, who runs the restaurant will greet you and tell you about her specials of the day. We loved everything we chose and for two courses with two glasses of wine each, we paid between 20 and 30 TL. (Specials started at 10 TL) The small deep fried red snappers were some of the best I’ve ever tasted and the barbecued sea bream was beautifully cooked. I was also impressed with the oven-baked pasta with chicken that I sampled on another occasion.
2012: Unfortunately Seyda is no longer working at Leleg.
There aren’t that many bargains out there at the moment, so it seems well worth noting this one. Where else can you find entertainment for less than 50 pence ( 1 TL) for two. No, I’m not joking. You can really go to a bar, sit outside with great views of the harbour, order two teas and pay 40 pence for the experience! (Update 2014: will now set you back 4TL and it’s self service – but still a bargain!)
The Turkish, as you probably know, have a tradition of tea (çay) drinking. This tradition is not only observed by the hospitality of being offered the beverage at various shops and businesses, but also by the preservation of unpretentious tea bars/ cafés ( usually with brown chairs and tables) where you can sit and order a small glass of çay for 0.50TL each.
One of the Çay Bars in Gumusluk fishing village sits next to the harbour where everyone, from locals to tourists, can sit and watch the world go by; try it yourself – the Gumusluk Çay Bar pictured also serves Apple (Elma) Tea for the same price, if you find Turkish tea rather strong.